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Past glories

The glimpse into history offered by Genoa and Ceuta goes unrecognised too often

By David Abulafia   January 2013

The old mariners’ neighbourhood of Boccadasse in Genoa (photo: Umberto Fistarol)

To experience the Mediterranean in winter is to experience a sea whose character has changed, along with that of the places along its shores: Venice immersed in fog, Vesuvius lost in the clouds above Naples, and the Sierra Nevada high above Granada blanketed in snow. Those places are magnets for tourists at any time; but there are other places where it is possible to escape from crowds of visitors and to lose oneself among the locals. There is…

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