Foods for all seasons
People who worry about their food—which means just about everyone nowadays—deplore the loss of the seasons. Not just because the production and transport of raspberries in December and asparagus in January are a carbon-pumping sin, but also because we’re upsetting the clock of our own palates, the pleasure of the stately march of the fruits of summer—rhubarb, raspberries, strawberries, figs, blackberries, apples—arriving in their right order.
But this is useless nostalgia. We should cheer the year-long abundance of fruits and vegetables, because it is pushing our cooks to have more ideas. Just as countries with…
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