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Matters of taste

It wasn't until I went to China that I began to understand what Chinese food is really like. Meals in London's Chinatown will never be the same again

By William Skidelsky   February 2007

Before I went to China, my knowledge of its food came from visits to restaurants in London’s Chinatown. In other words, it was extremely limited. Because of the Hong Kong connection, almost all Chinese restaurants in Britain are Cantonese. Cantonese cooking should not be conflated with that of China as a whole. While in principle I understood this, it wasn’t until I went to China that I fully grasped its importance. Up until then, I had persisted in the fantasy—which I suspect is common in Britain—that every night, people across China sit down to identikit meals of spring rolls, crispy…

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