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Why are food columns dumbing up?

By William Skidelsky  

We are all food-obsessed these days—or feel we ought to be. Now, it seems, intellectuals are getting in on the act. The Spectator has just made the left-wing sociologist Richard Sennett—author of The Fall of Public Man and The Corrosion of Character—its food columnist; historian Simon Schama is soon to be employed in a similar capacity by American Vogue. Whoever next? Will Tariq Ali land a restaurant reviewing gig at the Evening Standard? Will Noam Chomsky soon be instructing readers of Vanity Fair on how to perfect a steak au poivre? Could the reason for this dumbing up of food…

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