I have just returned from Italy, where, as tends to happen when I go on holiday there, I spent a large portion of my time cooking (most ambitious dish: ravioli stuffed with rabbit). Not for the first time, I was struck by the fact that cooking in Italy, as compared with cooking in Britain, is almost ridiculously easy. In Italy, any klutz can throw together, say, some tomatoes, onion, carrots and garlic, serve it on pasta, and the result will be delicious. In Britain, the most accomplished of chefs can construct a sauce from those same ingredients, and the result…
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