Dinner parties create anxieties: who to invite, what to serve and, if you’re a guest, what to bring. For many people, the wine is the last thing to consider, and thus the rules for food and wine pairing. It’s often said that the convention of not serving red wine with fish is outdated. But that is only half right. The young tannins of sturdy reds react with white fish to give the wine an unpleasant metallic taste. Yet a less tannic, or more mature red, combined with a meatier fish like salmon or tuna works very well.

And whites can be served with more than the fish course. White Bordeaux offers great pleasure with chicken or light pasta dishes. The creamy Semillon combines with the freshness of the Sauvignon to balance any dish with a white sauce. Fuller wines made from white Grenache in Spain, Pinot Gris in Alsace, Chenin