One man's quest to deconstruct the catwalk during London Fashion Weekby Edward Docx / March 21, 2012 / Leave a comment
The show by British-French design duo Meadham Kirchoff at London Fashion Week, February 2012
Day four. London Fashion Week. I’m heading backstage half an hour before yet another show. I pass a neo-Ottoman grouse-beater, a man with rabbit ears, a slouch of camp rockabilly-punks, DH Lawrence and a six-foot female Day-Glo clown-witch. I’m a grizzled veteran of the scene by now, but even so, I double back. Someone has to have the definitive answer. Maybe it’s her.
“Can you tell me what this is all about?” I ask.
“London. Fashion. London Fashion Week?”
“It’s about…” She considers. “It’s about dramatic but joyful.”
One of the best answers so far. Her name is Sadie Clayton. She is a fashion student. She seems confident. And at least it’s an answer that she embodies. She’s a witch-clown, I realise, not the other way round. I reassess my life—so much to learn—and I look to her friend. “Anything else?” I ask.
“Neoprene,” she says.
“Got it. Thanks.” I nod. “Dramatic but joyful. Neoprene.”
I’m getting closer, I think. I press on.
Security here is intense. I need separate passes to breathe, walk, speak, see and micturate. Indeed, faced with the demeanour of the various press officers, most non-fashion writers would assume that they had inadvertently stumbled upon some kind of top-secret peace summit between Israel and Palestine that was being personally brokered by President Obama and Angelina Jolie in the nude.
“I’m with the hair team,” I say, when I reach the VVVIP security door. This is also code. It means: “you must admit me because I am critical to the continuation of Life on Earth. Without me—no oxygen, no sunlight—humanity will become extinct and the universe will return to silence.”
I’m ushered in—backstage, the inner sanctum. I seek a corner from which to observe. But already a man is coming towards me. He looks… what? Crusty, but camp; the young Antonín Dvorák, perhaps. Is this his intention? Am I alone in recognising this? What is going on in men’s fashion? More questions. Just when I thought I was getting closer, I find I am further away.
“Leather, leather, but loose leather,” he says emphatically, in answer to my enquiry. “And sparkles.”
“Sparkles, yes.” I nod, nervously. In fashion, nothing must be allowed to stand still; even a week-long consensus would be globally catastrophic. “But I’m also hearing fox fur,” I add. “And…