I met Abdulkhaleq Abdulla in a café in one of Dubai’s gleaming new air-conditioned shopping malls. This being the middle east, I had taken the trouble to dress modestly, although I didn’t wear a headscarf or mantoux. Abdulla, a professor of political science at Emirates University, was clad in an immaculate dish-dasha; but all around, girls wandered past with their heads uncovered, wearing crop-tops and skintight jeans. Then Abdulla took me by surprise by shaking my hand—many Muslim men shy away from such contact with female non-relatives.
“I am mighty proud of Dubai. It is a trendsetter for the region. But that is both positive and negative,” Abdulla declared, pausing to sip his latte. “There has been an almost complete rupture with the past. Dubai 2007 in no way resembles the Dubai of 30 years ago. This is a city making history.”
Dubai is in the middle east, but it could be almost anywhere. Just about the only thing connecting the place to the past is the traditional dress still worn by many locals. The buildings are, by and large, cartoonishly modern. Culturally, it’s a chill-out zone compared to the austere traditionalism over the border in Saudi Arabia or across the Persian gulf in Iran.
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